Monday 30 May 2011

Quiet as a Church Mouse


Today there was an interesting article in the newspaper which reminded me of the ‘togs, togs, undies, undies’ concept that was trumpeted onto our TVs, but it is more specific in that it points directly at the clothes that are appropriate attire to enter a church in Croatia. Over the years that I have been popping my head into European Churches, things have certainly become more stringent. Often churches are locked now unless a service is being held – this was perhaps as a result of a wave of art thefts from churches about 6 years ago.
But most churches that you are allowed access to now have a pictorial list of ‘does and don’ts’ posted at the entrance – they suggest that you don’t have ice-creams or drinks, don’t talk on your cellphone, no photo-taking and no beach¬wear. (Disclaimer at this point – I did take a photo of the inside of Sv Martin yesterday at Brac, but there was no-one else in the church at all, and I didn’t have my bikini on).
The article states that priests (zupnik) and nuns (casna sestre) are amazed at the lack of respect that tourists have when entering churches. They cite recent examples where in the middle of mass, tourists wander in drinking from water bottles, eating ice-creams, talking, and wearing ‘kupacima i bikiniju’ (bathing togs and bikinis) ‘kratkim hlacicama’ (shorts) and ‘japankama’ (jandels), and even smoking. One priest in Sibenik said that over the last two years he has required six thousand tourists to leave the church for inappropriate behavior.
While they realize that tourists bring a healthy enconomy, they want it noted that churches are sacred places for prayer, not just another place for photo opportunities.
Some are going to take a lead from the pope in the Vatican, and the Blue Mosque in Istanbul and have t-shirts available for sale to cover shoulders and arms, and sarongs to cover legs. And another enterprising priest is now going to charge 30 kuna to allow entrance to his church.
It is an interesting point – I, for one, love nothing more than to go into these beautiful churches and just sit and enjoy the quiet, and I would hate the availability to do so to be stopped – I find the art in these old churches more interesting than the art museums and galleries. But the points raised are appropriate, and should be enforced (oh, a job opportunity for me!).
Tourists should be mindful of the local customs and dress code – maybe that advertisement could be re-branded to put the point across that in Croatia, you keep your togs and shorts on the beach and out of the churches.
(I tried to explain the concept of that 'togs, togs, undies, undies' ad to the person I was drinking coffee with as we watched a middle aged (not that that has anything to do with it) tourist sit down in a cafe for a drink - in his speedos - not in a beach cafe, but on the riva. It was lost in translation, and the comment was that the 'tourist's money is important - they can do what they want'. With a shrug of the shoulders.

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