The earth is tipping on its axis. Rumour has it that spring is trying to make an appearance in New Zealand, and Autumn is trying to do the same here. There are leaves dropping and blowing around despite the mid thirties temperatures.
I swam this morning at eight – it was gorgeous - and then ventured out to the beach again at four. The wind had come up (Jugo) and there were waves crashing over the edge of the wall on the riva. When I tried to climb down the rocks into the sea, the waves tossed me against the rocks – sea water and blood are an impressive combination – shoulder, wrist, knee…
We have the last of the tourists here – more Italian voices now. I spoke with a lady the other night who is, it is fair to say, a little negative about Makarska at the moment. “I’m just waiting until Croatia gets into the EU and the property prices increase, then I’m selling everything up. We don’t even get real tourists here anymore – just (insert here an eight letter word). They don’t know how to behave, they are so common”. I was surprised that these people weren’t real - apparently they eat… (gasp).. sausages!
“What about the Italians?” I naively asked – ‘Ej, they are only from Napoli, not real Italians – no style..”
Well for the record, yesterday there was a delightful Italian family at the beach next to me – charming children, a family having a lovely holiday.
It’s easy to forget when you are used to holidaying at the beach in New Zealand (you know, kiwi bach holidays) how wonderful the time here would be if you are a child and perhaps get to see the sea once a year. To be honest, there are some visitors who behave as though they have not been to the sea before. I saw a young woman the other morning – I will try to paint the picture for you- please use all your powers of imagination.
It was about 7.30 in the morning, the sun was not quite peeping over the Biokovo Mountains, and there was no one else on the beach, just us at the rowing club getting the boats out and a few partying souls who had decided when the clubs closed that the stones on the beach looked comfortable enough to sleep on. I suspect that this young woman may have had little contact with the sea, and a lot of contact with 1980’s fashion magazines. I saw the ‘big hat’, big glasses, and gold and diamond stilettos coming first – no mean feat on the beach- replete with a tiny polka-dot bikini… seriously. She stopped at various points on the beach to pose for her admiring boyfriend. She then spread her beach mat on the concrete pontoon where we launch the boats, and struck a few poses while he stood in front of her performing football stunts with his feet and his head – you know what I mean.. he had a soccer ball with him. No points for guessing where this couple were from – I suspect it wasn’t New Zealand or Australia though. Goodness, I sound as though I am judging!
Maybe I am. I was with a friend this morning drinking coffee on the riva (the main street) and a few groups walked past in kostumi za kupanje (togs!). I heard the phrase ‘dress code’ muttered. I also heard it stated categorically that these would not be locals. This is tantamount to walking through Mt Eden Village in your speedos (men) and bikini. Bez weightwatchers.
Whatever, a few more weeks and tourists in their togs in shops and cafes will be a dim memory. For some it will be a sigh of relief after working so relentlessly for three months, and for others, it will be the end of paid employment until next tourist season. Diversity needs to be the new buzz word on the Makarska Riviera just in case the tourists don’t come.
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